Saint-Cirq-Lapopie: A Medieval Gem in the French Dordogne

Saint-Cirq-Lapopie is a tiny village, population 220, in the Lot Department in southern France. This tiny hamlet is perched 400’ above the River Lot on a broad promontory overlooking a picturesque valley. Some years ago it was voted the #1 Most Beautiful Village in France. Consequently it sees a lot of tourists—so arrive early in the morning if you want to avoid the crowds!  

During the Middle Ages, the town became a center for woodworking and related crafts. Until the late 19th century, craftsmen could still be seen at their lathes and tables in the tiny shop fronts set in small archways sprinkled throughout the town. Today, you can see some of these craftsman’s tiny alcoves abutting stone cottages; many of them have morphed into souvenir shops or enlarged to form inviting restaurants or ice cream shops. Cottages lining the streets often have corbelled façades, exposed beams, or bays with mullioned windows popular in the Renaissance. The pedestrian-only streets are cobbled as you might expect in this medieval jewell that seems untouched by the passage of the centuries. The picture above shows a furry pup relaxing in a shady spot unafraid of being run over by a tourist’s BMW—one of the joys of travel to rural France in these historic villages.

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Still, there are plenty of eateries and boutiques nestled in the crevices of these ancient walls to satisfy most tourist needs. We spied a pretty rose covered terrace just above us as we wandered and decided to pop in for lunch. La Table Du Produceur is set high up in the nearly vertical village. It has seating for just 16 people and is rightly famous for its duck cuisine, specifically foie gras, plus other classic Dordogne favorites like cassoulet, as well as local wines from Cahors or Bergerac. As we always say, lunch is usually the best meal of the day in France—and this restaurant served up a perfect repast.

Afterward, you can pop into some of the charming ateliers or shops for some classic French shopping. Pick up some cans or jars of foie gras, country paté, baguettes, cookies, or fruit preserves, as well as wine and liquors, scented soaps and bath products, French clothing, Bric-à-brac, and other medieval souvenirs like candlesticks, bronze keys, and French baskets, just to name a few.  

Market day is Wednesday beginning at 4pm. We usually recommend trying to coordinate visits with French village market days. And this one draws both locals haggling over the fresh produce, fish, and game, as well as tourists from all over the globe enjoying the spectacle!

If you visit Rocamadour, Saint-Cirq-Lapopie is just an hour’s drive away; it’s a good antidote to the crowds in the famous place of pilgrimage at Rocamadour. Saint-Cirq-Lapopie is on the D40 two hours drive from Toulouse and two and half hours drive from Bergerac in the Dordogne. It will not disappoint—and you may make some new French friends while you’re there!  

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